Tiling Services
Wall and floor tiling for wet and living areas.
We cover 2 regions and 107 suburbs across Victoria. Pick your area below. Each page covers the councils, site conditions and permit considerations specific to that part of the state.
What tiling services actually involves
Tiling looks like a surface job and behaves like a substrate job. Tiles crack, lift and drum almost entirely because of what is underneath them, movement in the substrate, inadequate preparation, or missing movement joints.
Large-format tiles have made this less forgiving. They need a flatter substrate and better adhesive coverage than smaller tiles, and they show any deviation in the surface behind them.
Technical requirements
- Substrate preparation and movement joints
- Slip ratings for wet and external areas
- Waterproofing interface and bond breakers
How the job runs
- Assess and prepare the substrate for flatness and soundness
- Confirm waterproofing is complete and certified in wet areas
- Set out to minimise awkward cuts and centre the pattern
- Fix with appropriate adhesive and full coverage
- Install movement joints where required
- Grout, clean and seal where the material needs it
What goes wrong
The failures we get called out to fix are consistent. These are the ones worth asking any builder about before you engage them.
- Tiling over a substrate that moves
- Missing movement joints in large floor areas
- Partial adhesive coverage, which leaves drummy tiles and weak spots
- Wrong slip rating for a wet or external area
Tell us the address, we will tell you what applies
Tell us the address and what you are planning.
We reply the same business day.
Tiling Services by area
2 regions, 107 suburbs. Each page is specific to that area.
Common questions
These answers apply wherever the job is. Anything specific to your area is on the relevant area page above, and anything specific to your property is a conversation.
Can you tile over existing tiles?
On a wall or a dry floor it can be done, provided the existing tiles are firmly bonded, flat, and prepared with the right primer. Tap them first. Anything hollow has already let go and will take the new work with it. Wet areas are the exception that usually decides it. The waterproofing membrane belongs under the tiles, and tiling over the old surface leaves the original membrane buried and unverifiable. In a bathroom that normally means stripping back rather than building up.
What tile is right for a wet area?
Two things matter more than appearance. Slip resistance, which is rated and should be chosen for a wet floor rather than assumed, and water absorption, which is why a tile intended for a wall can fail as a shower floor. Format matters too. A shower base needs falls to the waste in more than one direction, and a large tile cannot bend to follow them, so smaller formats or mosaic sit better in the base. Wall tiles have far more freedom.
How do you stop tiles cracking?
Most cracked tiles are a substrate problem rather than a tile problem. A floor that flexes underfoot will crack whatever is bonded to it, so the fix starts below the tile. Movement joints are the second half. Large areas, changes in direction, and perimeters all need somewhere for expansion to go, and grouting straight through those points is what causes tiles to lift or crack in a line. The third is coverage. A tile bedded on dabs with voids underneath cracks the first time something heavy lands on the hollow spot.